Napoli, in a word, was amazing. It was dirty, littered, graffitied and thoroughly charming. Although our ship had docked in Naples, we first visited Pompeii. By the time we had returned, it was late afternoon and most everything was closed for siesta.

   Many publications noted that Naples had high crime and could even be dangerous. Well, it was, but not because of crime. The drivers there have a complete disregard for traffic control and complete contempt for the pedestrian. However, with a little practice, determination, guts and lots of luck, we were finally able to cross streets in the best Neopolitan manner.

    To the immediate right is an example of the many Chiesas or churches in Naples. Further right is the Duomo San Gennaro (the patron saint of Naples), built in the late 13th century. The chapel within houses the relics of San Gennaro, who was martyred in 305 AD. A silver-gild bust contains his head and phials of his congealed blood that are said to "miraculously" liquify three times a year.
    Fortunately one museum that was open was the Cappella Sansevero (middle right). The chapel was built in the 16th century as the burial sepulchre for the Princes of Sangro di Sansevero. The chapel is filled with magnificent 18th century sculpture, including a statue of a woman seemingly veiled with the sheerest of fabric ironically called "Modesty" (below left) and one of the most incredible sculptures I've seen by Sammartino called Cristo Velato or the Veiled Christ (below right). The sculpture is of alabaster and feels as if you're looking through a veil at the figure beneath. The sculpture is absolutely remarkable.